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Old 06-01-2016, 02:41 AM   #26
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Smizo- no doubt your absolutely correct. I think the effort will be worth it though.


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Old 06-04-2016, 09:34 PM   #27
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Turtle deck fixed. See before and after. The instrument panel was in your teeth event for my 13 year old daughter. I have data from airplane platics s2 canopy on size and profile, and will more the likely go that direction. Definitely will be using a single instrument panel. Just like the eagle.


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Old 06-04-2016, 09:52 PM   #28
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Picture before
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Old 06-04-2016, 09:55 PM   #29
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After
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Old 06-04-2016, 09:56 PM   #30
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Different angle shot.
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Old 06-05-2016, 04:43 AM   #31
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That alone would make a huge difference. I'd probably do it to mine if it was finished in Polytone. Mine is Aerothane, it would be a huge mess.
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Old 06-26-2016, 04:53 PM   #32
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Just reserved a cool n number. N540AD. Considering this is a 540 powered Acro Duster I think that's pretty cool.
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Old 08-06-2016, 05:46 PM   #33
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A little more progress.
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Old 08-24-2016, 08:14 PM   #34
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Any one have a solution for this defect on my engine mount??

I assume the stresses of previous aerobatic activity are the culprit. May hard landings.

I would hate to saw this thing apart to fix this.

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Old 08-24-2016, 08:23 PM   #35
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It looks like it was built that way.
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Old 08-24-2016, 08:28 PM   #36
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the other three are not as bad
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Old 08-24-2016, 09:58 PM   #37
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Possibly caused by the welding .
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Old 08-25-2016, 01:41 AM   #38
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I agree that was made that way. The question is how true us the mount? Probably was going to dress the tube once welded but fount out he did not have extra. Trim flat and add a spacer for the amount removed. Or leave it.
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Old 08-25-2016, 02:50 AM   #39
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I guess if it really bothers you you could turn up a washer with a concave depression on one side. Make it thin so it just squares up with the rubber.
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Old 08-25-2016, 02:53 AM   #40
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The rubber doesn't notice it.
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Old 08-25-2016, 05:36 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airplanegeek View Post
Any one have a solution for this defect on my engine mount??

I assume the stresses of previous aerobatic activity are the culprit. May hard landings.

I would hate to saw this thing apart to fix this.

Dave Baxter....PM sent.
So airplane geek, do you have a real name? Yes I have seen this before, and yes it is from some hard Acro! Didn't your airplane at one tine a big hp 540 with a three bladed prop? Usually the thick washer type round flange breaks free and pulls loose from the tube at the weld. The Acroduster engine mount is in most respects is built for a tank. However this is one of the weaker points, and may be less than desired for the big engines and hard aerobatics. Up until 1981 the company Stolp Starduster Corp was owned by Jim Osborne, and after that his shop foreman Bill Clouse ended up with the company.

Bill was not a welder, but he knew most everything about the airplane, and was great guy in many respects, but he was a hard guy to work for, and so the four full time employees under Osborne were quickly gone. After this he employed a number of part time welders, some were good and others not so much, I suspect that your mount may have been made during this time in the 80s. Just a guess, and as such it appears to me that the large area mounting flange may have been made from two thinner pieces of 4130 then edge welded, instead of a thick piece of 2.00 4130 x 2" diameter the person that built the mount may not have had the correct material at the time and tried to make up for it buy edge welding two thinner pieces together, Just a guess, as if made from the correct material it should not bend at all. One other thing that may of added to the concave flange might be that the three other engine mounting bolts had a washer under the head inside of the tube, and that one did not! But even then it should not bend, concave out.

Also it appears that your rubber engine mount isolators are the larger ones and the mount was made for the smaller isolators. This is not uncommon, as the 540s have two different style mounting ears, one with the big isolators, and one for the smaller ones, and have different angles as well.

Can you look into the hole and see if this is the case? That the round flanges are made from two pieces, also check the thickness. Should be at least .187 4130 plate. The drawing in Skybolt news call out for .160 x 2 1/2" diameter 4130 and 1" x .049 tubing. The Starduster and Acroduster used 1" x .058 4130

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Building the motor mount part 3 small.jpg   Building the engine mount Washers SAM_1452.jpg  
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Old 08-25-2016, 10:59 AM   #42
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I should have noticed the edge welded washer. Dave again sees the whole picture.

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Old 08-25-2016, 11:34 AM   #43
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Dave,

I believe you are spot on with everything you are saying.

You are correct about the laminated mounts alaso. It is two thin pieces that have been edge welded. I think the only correct coarse of action would be to remove the laminated pads and install the solid pads. This is obviously the weak spot of this mount.

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Old 08-25-2016, 01:11 PM   #44
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Good catch Dave,

I saw that the edge looked odd but never thought about it being a weld. It would never occur to me that the washer would have been laminated from thinner stock. Live and learn moment here for me, thanks.
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Old 08-25-2016, 04:17 PM   #45
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Awesome catch. I'd forgotten about the different angles also. Now would be a very good time to make sure what you now have since the engine is not the same one that came off it. Are the angles very close so people could use the wrong mount with the wrong engine or is it very apparent once you start to bolt it up?
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Old 08-26-2016, 01:54 AM   #46
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Looks like I need to get the grinder out. Chop. Chop.

Dave, would you be willing to sell a few of your mount pads. if not, no troubles, i'll spin them off on a lathe.
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Old 08-26-2016, 02:00 AM   #47
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And now for another problem.

I am replacing fuel valves and noted that the new ones from ACS have a plastic spool inside. This is the three way, brass body valves. Despite the description that says, brass spool and brass body. That just rubs me wrong, because with my luck the plastic would break in the wrong position at the wrong time. Has anyone seen a failure of these?

Thinking of going with the Allen valves, just have to warm up to the sticker price.

Thoughts or Comments?https://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages.../hbshutoff.php
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Old 08-26-2016, 02:29 AM   #48
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Take a look at Andair valves. Really top of the heap on fuel valves but also top of the $$$$$. They make a great electric pump and filter system also for fuel injected engine. I am currently battling the cost of buying a Andair valve with there extended arm kit. All said and done it's over $600!!!! But it's top notch stuff VS homemade stuff. My plane originally had a WW2 era type F1 fuel valve that was also used in Fairchild planes. They use a cork that has holes drilled in it. Seems like cork would break off etc and stop up fuel valve but almost all the WW2 era valves use the cork style valves. The problem is no one makes new corks with the holes drilled in them etc and I don't know if the cork had a coating etc or was just raw cork. Bottom line is in today's world there is probably better choices than the brass style valves but they are $$$$. If I recall Stinson has a replacing valse that is the Allen type I believe and it was night and day better than the stock old valve. Another interesting thing is I believe it's part of the FARs that fuel valves must be able to select a different tank with out going through the OFF location...but Christian Wobble pumps have the valve that one side is one tank...middle is off...and the other side is the second tank (if you have one). I guess on experimental it makes no difference but I wonder why Christian didn't stick with how every other valve has to be???
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Old 08-26-2016, 11:12 AM   #49
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The Allen Valves are widely used in the certified world, so thats why i lean that way. The brass on brass valves work ok, but need lubed fairly often.
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Old 09-02-2016, 09:29 PM   #50
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so i cut the warped pads off of my mount today. The laminated shims measure at .100 each, and so together were .200. I guess the laminated peices are not as strong as a single .160.

I was contemplating whether it would make sense to build bushings for the inside of the standoff tubes, so the bolt bears it weight on the bushing rather then the pad.

I will make a drawing to describe.


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