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Old 06-28-2017, 12:47 PM   #51
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Simon,

Rod ends should have a witness hole and you must engage the threads to cover that hole. Use a small piece of safety wire to check for minimum engagement.

I'm curious about the wing chord and the aileron chord dimensions. If it's not too much bother I'd love to have those dimensions. Thanks.....


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Old 06-28-2017, 01:04 PM   #52
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Bill, thanks for the hint. Unfortunately there are no such holes. Since I'm going to lock the rod end with the nut and use some locking varnish I thought this should be enough. Plus: Even if the rod end might become loose, it won't move since the other side is still locked. If the next side should unlock, too - the travel will still be the same, as long as there are enought threads left on both sides. This is why I'd like to have as much threads covered, as possible...

No problem at all, I'll throw the rule at my wing and give you the numbers.


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Old 06-28-2017, 01:23 PM   #53
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Ah, I see now, the rod ends are male threads. Any witness hole would have to be in the pushrod itself. How deep are the threads in the pushrod? No need to go any deeper than that on assembly.
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Old 06-28-2017, 02:34 PM   #54
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For now only 5 full threads are in the pushrod. I would feel more comfortable with 8, but this way the pushrod seems to be too short. Guess I'll have to take a closer look as soon as the wings are test mounted to the fuselage including stick.
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Old 06-28-2017, 04:46 PM   #55
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How many threads are in a standard nut of that size? That would be my minimum engagement.
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Old 06-28-2017, 05:10 PM   #56
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Yep, standard practice is one thread showing minimum. I see no need for more, just dead weight.
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Old 06-28-2017, 08:14 PM   #57
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Simon
The minimum thread engagement is 1.5 times the major thread diameter.
I guess you have 3/8" thread diameter,so the minimum engagement should be 9/16"
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Old 06-28-2017, 09:11 PM   #58
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Lots of ways to look at this. An AN665 fork has threads about 1.75xD but AN315 & AN365 nuts have much less than 1.0xD. If you look at a REPB female rod end the witness hole is at a consistent 5/16" no matter what size the thread is!

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Using 1.5xD is very safe but I wouldn't feel bad about having less engagement. Unlike an AN665 these parts see relatively small loads.
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Old 06-29-2017, 07:09 AM   #59
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Thank you guys for your participation. Most of it are exactely the thought I had, too.

I'd also like to follow the rule of thumb with 1.5 times the 1.5 times the major thread diameter, but unfortunately the pushrod seems to be too short to apply this rule.

I'm in contact with Jay Womack, he'll remove his fabric in ~1 month and might take some pictures for me. We'll see whats wrong with my pushrod system. Maybe it's just me that did a fault on assembling.

Yesterday evening I applied the sealer to the leading edges, today I'll so some reinforcement work with super slim fiber glas on all the areas where pushrods go through the plywood.

I measured the wing and aileron: wing incl. aileron has a chord of 46.8" the aileron itself has 10.5", so roughtly 22.5% of the wing are aileron.
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Old 06-29-2017, 02:11 PM   #60
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How deep are the threads in the pushrod? Those are not standard AN parts welded to the ends so they could be anything in terms of thread depth.

I assume a typo there, did you mean 36.8" and 10.5"?

Thanks Simon!
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Old 06-29-2017, 04:54 PM   #61
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About the 1.5 times rule of thumb,yes i think,is may be to much and sometime impossible to apply.I found that on AURORA web site.
For my push rods,i will use REP3M6A (that i bought to Kris) with a thread of 1.313" long,or REP3M6-2N with a thread of 3/4" long.For the first ones,i can use the 1.5 times rule with the bolt in,for the second ones,no

http://www.rbcbearings.com/aero-pdfs...RE_MS21151.pdf
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Old 06-30-2017, 09:45 AM   #62
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The threads go really deep into the pushrods, I would guess about 1". The inserts are open at the end, so no problem with screwing it in too far.

I have the GMM-3M-670 AURORA bearings, ACS #05-01639 with only .75" thread lenght. Theoretically this should be enought.

I'll finish the wings first, then assemble the airframe the first time to be sure about the aileron deflections with the stick, and the decide on what to do. Your info is really valuable, thank you guys!

...and then I'll start the fuselage salvaging.
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Old 08-22-2017, 10:41 AM   #63
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Great project Simon! Do you know what your wings weigh?
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Old 09-08-2017, 12:06 PM   #64
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Unfortunately I'm pretty limited on time the last days, so no real progress here besides the fact that also the upper wings leading edges are on and have to be trimmed in the same fashion I did it to the lower wings.

I have no glue what my wings weight - I'll weight them and let you know. I'll only be able to weight the lower wings including ailerons and drive system, the upper wing can be weighed without the ailerons.

Honestly: They sure are a bit beefier than stock S1-S wings, but the ply leading edges don't play a role here.

Have a great weekend everybody!
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Old 10-17-2017, 07:08 AM   #65
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Finally I was able to start fabricating the I-Struts, see pictures attached. First I bent the 3/4" sq tube to fit the wings perfectly, then I flattended the streamline tube und set up the jig. Couple of hours later everythings fits perfectly.

I drilled the front hole in the 3/4" first (6mm instead of 6,35 for 1/4") and marked the rear hole using the wings to guaratee a perfect fit. Next I'll tack the tubes together and test-fit it on the airframe with the poor welded fuselage. This way I'll be able to tell whether the fuselage needs to be aligned while changing the tubes or not.

After reaming the top end tube of the cabanes to 5/16" the top wing is on the fuselage for the first time since I own it. The rear holes of the wing fitting (on the wing side) isn't reamed to 5/16" yet so I can adjust the top wing a little bit if it is necessary.

Unfortunately the front flying wires were too long. When I first saw that one of the previous owners cut both the flying wires and the tie ends I went nuts for a second, thinking about he might have mixed the 72" with the 74" wires or so. (After seeing the "weldes" on the fuselage you loose you s**t very quickly...)

Unfortunately my lower wings have no opening for the rear flying wires that are attached to the rear spar mount on the fuselage, so I might have to wildely cut into my - I thought to be - ready to cover wings.
IMG_20171012_093641.jpg   IMG_20171012_211015.jpg   IMG_20171014_225235.jpg   IMG_20171014_225246.jpg   IMG_20171015_002601.jpg  

IMG_20171016_200812.jpg   IMG_20171016_205710.jpg   IMG_20171016_213514.jpg   IMG_20171016_213750.jpg   IMG_20171016_214736.jpg  

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Old 12-13-2017, 03:42 PM   #66
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Simon
Do you have any pictures showing how your drag wires are bold on the rear spars ? Do you have plywood or aluminum cove ?
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Old 12-13-2017, 04:13 PM   #67
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Hi Jean-Luc,

see pictures attached, the rear flying wires are attached to some welded steel lugs. Unfortunately the assembly of the lower wing was welded as per plans with ~34°, which doesn't fit as you can see. For the top wing it fits perfectly (no pic of that, sorry), but since the rear flying wires are attached to the rear lower wing attach bolts the angle is another then the one from the rear landing wires that are attached to the rear cabane.

I already build a new assembly, have to take some photos soon.

Unfortunately the front flying wires are really too long, so I shortened the lug that is attached to the front spar - no other possibility so far. Hopefully this is enought, I gained ~11 mm more lenght. I absolutely don't want to cut more threat into the flying wires...

Since my mobile phone won't connect to the computer right now I have no other pictures of the fuselage than the ones you can see. The upper longerons are already changed, as well as rear lower crossmember and rear cabanes. Upper longerons are 7/8" now instead of 3/4". The rear cabanes are also increased to the next size as per FEM analysis. If everything is done the airframe will weight in ~700 g heavier but will withstand +/-8.5 g with safety factor of 1.5
IMG_20171029_182215.jpg   IMG_20171101_124358.jpg   IMG_20171031_225847.jpg   IMG_20171101_011938.jpg   IMG_20171101_005700.jpg  

IMG_20171110_183553.jpg   IMG_20171112_140550.jpg   IMG_20171111_113411.jpg  
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Old 12-13-2017, 05:57 PM   #68
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Thank you for the pics Simon.
That was about the drag wires and not the flying wires .It seems to me,that they are bold in some small tubes that are fitted in 1/4" birch plywood glued to the rear spars,and on the front spars they are bold as per Pitts way.Pics about the flying wires are very interesting .
Do your 7/8" upper longerons go front the fire wall to the tail post ? 700 grs is not so much !!!
Very nice work
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Old 12-13-2017, 10:02 PM   #69
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Yes the flying wire attachment bracket is intresting. Hope it is a very good weld
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Old 12-14-2017, 08:53 PM   #70
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Moin Simon,

Drag/Antidragwires ist die Kreuzverspannung zwischen den Holmen.

Gruß Reinhard

Sorry for writing in German :-)


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