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Old 08-03-2017, 09:46 PM   #1
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Default Canopy polish?

What do you guys like to use on canopies to get out the fine scratches and swirls??

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Old 08-03-2017, 10:23 PM   #2
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Default Plastic Polish

NOVUS PLASTIC POLISH....works well for me..

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Old 08-03-2017, 10:25 PM   #3
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Thanks mjk51....
Do you use all three steps with no issues or just 1 and 2??

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Old 08-03-2017, 11:36 PM   #4
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Default Polish

The higher the number the coarser the abrasive. If you have "heavy" scratches start with #3 followed by #2 then polish and buff with #1. You might start with #2 if the defects are not too deep. Try the #1 alone if all you have are minor scuffs on the windshield/canopy.
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Old 08-03-2017, 11:49 PM   #5
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Do you use elbow grease for that, or some variety of power buffer?
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Old 08-04-2017, 02:22 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IanJ View Post
Do you use elbow grease for that, or some variety of power buffer?

Something like this would be useful.
3M has a couple of different foam pads to use on the double action tool, some that provide an aggressive and some that give a soft effect with the same polishing paste.

http://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-u...3082375&rt=rud

Look at page 24 of the catalogue, below.

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/5...es-catalog.pdf
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Old 08-04-2017, 03:01 AM   #7
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I think I will start with elbow grease and move up if need be... The buffer scares me..

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Old 08-04-2017, 04:15 AM   #8
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+1 for Novus. I used #1 for regular polishing. If I see swirlies in the canopy I may use some #2, haven't had to resort to #3 yet.
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Old 08-04-2017, 06:50 AM   #9
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I think I will start with elbow grease and move up if need be... The buffer scares me..

Bill
Yeah, that's why I asked. I can't imagine using a buffer on plexi, but I'm frequently overly cautious about these things.
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Old 08-04-2017, 08:24 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IanJ View Post
Yeah, that's why I asked. I can't imagine using a buffer on plexi, but I'm frequently overly cautious about these things.
On other occasions, I have tried power buffer (the ones attached on a drill) on plexiglas and found out if the speed is too fast and depending on the rotating material, it can actually get hot easily and actually almost melt the plexiglas. So be careful. Doing it by hand is much safer.
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Old 08-04-2017, 10:50 AM   #11
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On other occasions, I have tried power buffer (the ones attached on a drill) on plexiglas and found out if the speed is too fast and depending on the rotating material, it can actually get hot easily and actually almost melt the plexiglas. So be careful. Doing it by hand is much safer.
Don't use a rotary machine on Plexiglas. For the reasons stated in the quote, far too much heat generated. It will dissolve and burr the polycarbonate or acrylic. When this happens it is extremely difficult to remedy.

It has to be a dual action (random orbit) action. No heat generated.
(a 6"disc support is too big for this kind of work. Better to go with something smaller, like 3 1/4"
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Old 08-04-2017, 12:21 PM   #12
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it is my recollection that using no. 1 type cleaner/polisher (on a regular or daily basis) it should be used on a vertical wiping motion, not circular to avoid the swirls that lead to light distortion. obtw, you can see a video on EAA website
"Repairing Scratched Plexiglas"

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Old 08-04-2017, 05:04 PM   #13
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I micro meshed and used a small DA using the 3M perfect it line of polishes. I've also used a regular big dewalt buffer...the key is don't let it get dry. And it doesn't have to be at warp speed. Worked very well for a Lancair Legacy I did main canopy glass and rear side glass.
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Old 08-04-2017, 06:51 PM   #14
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I was given a box with the polish kit, used my Dewalt drill and had great luck. Keep it wet. It doesn't take long and you will get a feel for the drag. My canopy had two layers of paint over spray, both blue and gray. I ended up with a "looks like new" canopy. Took about 8 hours as I recollect, another words 2 hours a night for most of the week at home in my work shop. Not bad at all, don't get in a hurry, let the compound do its job. I even had a scratch right in the top that I went after with 400, 600, 800,1,000,1,500, finishing up with 2,000 grit then used the polishing compound steps and the scratch just disappeared. I've also done this with some aluminum grill parts for my 46 T-Craft using automotive buffing compound to finish up. Started with sand castings that were as ruff as your imagination pictures them and can now comb my hair looking in them. They are a bit slower taking about a week per small part but when its 20 below outside. Its not a bad job, just don't get in a hurry, not a lot of hard labor hard labor either, just let the progressive grits do their magic.
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Old 08-04-2017, 11:58 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotahp1 View Post
I micro meshed and used a small DA using the 3M perfect it line of polishes. I've also used a regular big dewalt buffer...the key is don't let it get dry. And it doesn't have to be at warp speed. Worked very well for a Lancair Legacy I did main canopy glass and rear side glass.
Nothing too wrong with a big DeWalt buffer.
Yes it's rotary and not dual action (which does not generate the same friction)
The thing with a purpose made electric buffer is the control of wheel speed. Your looking for 1800 RPM and no more. You can go slower and achieve safer results from not burning the acrylic.
The thing with the electric buffer is torque, they have plenty of it and you can slow real down and still the buffer will rotate.

An electric machine (used for grinding) with no speed adjustment should not be used because it rotates too fast.

An air powered machine will stop if there is not enough energy. So slowing down is not much of an option. The keep the torque the rotation is too fast for buffing and avoiding burning.
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Old 08-05-2017, 03:40 PM   #16
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Thanks for all the info guys
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Old 08-06-2017, 08:08 AM   #17
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There is also this Scratch-Off set: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...scratchoff.php


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