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Old 07-15-2017, 03:50 AM   #1
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Default Compression ribs?

Has anybody changed the compression ribs on the standard wing to the "D" or the type the Pitts has? (They are fully sheeted with internal compression struts verses the external type on the standard?)


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Old 07-15-2017, 07:43 PM   #2
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What does the plans show for the Skybolt compression rib?


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Old 07-15-2017, 11:14 PM   #3
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I only have the standard wing plan set and it shows a regular rib with a 3/4 square piece glued to both sides of the rib.
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Old 07-16-2017, 01:56 AM   #4
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Why change it?
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Old 07-16-2017, 03:29 AM   #5
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Since we are rebuilding the wings why not try and make the rib stitching easier?

these wings were a joke. scary kinda joke

its amazing what you find when homebuilders don't follow the plans....
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Old 07-16-2017, 04:57 AM   #6
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Aren't you talking about not following the plans in this thread?
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Old 07-16-2017, 05:16 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by cwilliamrose View Post
Aren't you talking about not following the plans in this thread?
Bingo.

I just finished last week stitching my lower wings, the compression ribs were a total non event, with one curved needle made from 3/32 welding rod; I had to slightly bend it one time, as I stitched along the length of the rib. Easy.
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Old 07-16-2017, 08:26 PM   #8
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Acrobum,
Why change it. Well the one piece 3/4 X 3/4 compression does not
stabilize the rear spar. You could use two, one on the top of the rib
and one on the bottom. That would help in the rear spar from twisting.
But not as good as what Pitts did with the extra thick rib with 1/16 ply on both sides. And yes would be a lot better to rib stitch around.
Or you could put 1/16 ply over the top of the bottom wing and on the bottom of the top wing under where the I struts go. Ply would go from the front spar to the rear spar and wide enough the catch the ribs on either side of the I strut.
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Old 07-16-2017, 11:12 PM   #9
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<Why change it. Well the one piece 3/4 X 3/4 compression does not
stabilize the rear spar.>
This is a Skybolt, not a Pitts, as such, it has as an extra flying wire going to the rear spar. Hundreds have been built as per plans, and are not falling out of the sky.

<Or you could put 1/16 ply over the top of the bottom wing and on the bottom of the top wing under where the I struts go. Ply would go from the front spar to the rear spar and wide enough the catch the ribs on either side of the I strut.>
Or, you could just bend a welding rod, stitch around the compression rib, then go have a beer.
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Old 07-17-2017, 12:23 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AQAdude View Post
Since we are rebuilding the wings why not try and make the rib stitching easier?

these wings were a joke. scary kinda joke

its amazing what you find when homebuilders don't follow the plans....
I was building Skybolt wings.

I was fumbling for some time with getting the needle around the compression rib.
I listened to the members on the forum and with a couple of tweaks on needle bending, I threaded my way around the interfering wooden stick.

I also made an extra needle out of welding rod, for when you get close to the rear spar the space between the top and bottom cap strip is close. So I needed a real small curved needle.

Look at post #58 and some more posts.

http://www.biplaneforum.com/showthre...=13969&page=10
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Old 07-17-2017, 12:44 AM   #11
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Taff, I recall your thread about curved needles. In fact, I was dreading the process because of your thread.lol. But, for me, one curved needle that was easily bendable on the fly (weldind rod), and one small bend adjustment as I got closer to the rear spar was all it took, and it probably took only 10 more minutes to complete than the regular ribs. One thing I noticed in your curved needle pics, was the constant radius in the needle, I found that starting with 1 radius that gradually becomes a little bigger along the needle found me the sweet spot. Interesting how we were both working with the same geometry, yet experienced different levels of difficulty....
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Old 07-17-2017, 01:09 AM   #12
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Beej.
I believe I ended up with three curved needles and of course the needle with the bent tip, for passing the lace forward.

The large curved for rib center (majority of the lacing) and then a smaller curve for near the front spar and an area starting to get narrower near the rear spar and then the smallest curve for real close to the rear spar lacing.

Maybe if I had had a gradual curve instead of a close to semi circle shape I could have done it with two different needles.
As you say, when I figured the system out, the actual lacing wasn't an issue and only a little slower on those ribs that had the compression struts.

I the big picture of things, there are many more brain teasers than this during airplane building.


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