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Old 10-01-2017, 04:50 AM   #276
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Finally got back to building whole parts today instead of making up kit pieces. Built rib #18, a -294 rib, the ribs which will border the inboard side of the aileron bay on each wing. Also finally tackled the second half of the spring bending jig with the giant welding tip. Pre-heating the metal made all the difference. I still have technique improvements to make, and they're not pretty welds, but they'll do what they need to, and I'm finally done with the welding.


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Old 10-12-2017, 02:44 AM   #277
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On to a new challenge tonight: the -292 rib stubs. These are just noses, which go in front of the top-wing fuel tanks, about mid-tank.

For previous ribs (which have all been full-length), I can count on the structure of the rib to give the top and bottom capstrips the right curvature. For these little tiny top and bottom capstrip stubs, I needed to give them a bit of curvature by their nature, rather than relying on mechanical means. Thus: my first wood-bending experiment!

I traced a slightly curved line from the rib nose (slightly more curved than I need for either piece of capstrip, but hopefully about right once springback is accounted for) on a hunk of scrap 2x4, and cut along it with the jigsaw. The capstrip stubs were soaked in hot water in an impromptu submersion setup (pictured below), then clamped in the jig with plastic wrap to keep them from leaching too much of their moisture into the 2x4. The plastic wrap is probably unnecessary, but I figured it'd be worth a try. The wrap is now open so the water can still evaporate. We'll see tomorrow how the bend turns out.


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Old 10-12-2017, 02:51 AM   #278
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Nice work!
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Old 10-12-2017, 03:16 AM   #279
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Thanks! I'll see tomorrow if I guessed right on the curvature. It seems unlikely I'll get it right on the first try, but I suppose you never know.
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Old 10-12-2017, 12:40 PM   #280
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Rather than trying to consistently soak/bend multiple strips to the same shape use two pieces of capstrip material that equal the thickness of what you need. Glue them together in your little jig. They will come out perfect every time
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Old 10-12-2017, 04:05 PM   #281
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Randy, if I've done it right, I won't have to do this particular operation again.

Are you saying that if (for instance) I need 1/4" capstrip, I should make a laminate of two pieces of 1/8" capstrip glued together, like I would for a laminated wingtip bow? That would certainly work, though it's overkill for what I'm doing -- I only need to make two of these -292 rib noses, and if my soak/bend operation turns out right, I've already got all the pieces I'll need for it. I'm not sure if the plans call for any lamination, but I've read about other folks' laminated wingtip bows with great interest.
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Old 10-12-2017, 06:09 PM   #282
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Sorry, thought you had a bunch of those to make and yes, that is what I was saying. I use this method to make kayak coaming lips using 1/8" thick Ash as it bends very easily and it works very well.
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Old 10-12-2017, 06:26 PM   #283
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Gotcha. At first I was locked into thinking about all my capstrip as being 1/4" square (since that's all I have at the moment), and couldn't figure out what you meant, thus my clarification question. I agree that that would be a good way to go for making a bunch of these. Less time involved in actively preparing the capstrip, and gluing is easier (or at least more familiar) than soaking.
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Old 10-12-2017, 09:05 PM   #284
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Looking good....and innovative, Ian!
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Old 10-17-2017, 04:48 AM   #285
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The bent pieces fit exactly like I had hoped they would. 0.8 hours later, I have my two required rib noses, and can cross the -292 ribs off the list. Pity it took me almost five days to actually get back in the shop and get them done.
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Old 10-17-2017, 05:01 AM   #286
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Looks great!
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Old 10-27-2017, 05:04 AM   #287
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Finally finished the next hurdle tonight: making all the pieces to start on the -295 ribs, which are destined to be cut into pieces to make the aileron-bay ribs. Comparing to Smizo's latest wing build thread is basically impossible -- looking at his sheets of precision CNC cut plywood and routed jigs, it's like a completely different world. S'ok, I knew what I was signing up for, and I'm having a good time, on the apparently rare occasions I get out to the garage to make some progress.
IMG02647.jpg   IMG02648.jpg   IMG02649.jpg   IMG02652.jpg  
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Old 10-27-2017, 10:21 AM   #288
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Real good joinery there Ian!

It looks like your having smooth stapler operation as well. Don't forget to smear a little glue on both parts before stickin 'em together.

I like ribs, all stacked up and ready for threading.
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Old 10-27-2017, 10:31 AM   #289
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I like this little detail work, your idea or per plans?

Whatever it is, it looks a little bit more work but very clever, strongly beefed up there.
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Old 10-27-2017, 12:33 PM   #290
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Ian,

Tell us how the remainder parts get turned into aileron ribs. I ask because if you need to put parts in place for the nose of the aileron why not do it now, while it's in this jig?
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Old 10-27-2017, 02:57 PM   #291
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The clever joinery is in the plans, as shown below.

The ailerons are built up with a spar that fits at the forward edge of the cut-off -295A structure as shown. There are 7 leading-edge formers per aileron, and the plans show a .016" 2024 Al leading edge on the ailerons. I'm undecided whether I'll stick with aluminum there or try for plywood -- that's a pretty tight radius, and I have a feeling Al will be easier to work with. The wing leading edge is specified to be the same .016" aluminum, which I'm changing to plywood for durability reasons (and some weight penalty). Because the ailerons are so well protected, I'm much less worried about them getting dented in use, so aluminum is probably a better choice for the aileron leading edge. I reserve the right to change my mind on this, since I haven't studied aileron construction at all yet.
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Old 10-27-2017, 03:20 PM   #292
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A lot of airplanes have AL leading edges, it's just that most of them also feature ailerons with an all-AL structure. The Pitts S-2 and Christen Eagle have AL ailerons for example. My project airplane will have them too. I measure the LE material on the Eagle ailerons at .016" and they seem pretty stout to me.

I see how the ailerons are built now. If you go with plywood you should also consider adding a spruce LE and make the ply as two pieces top and bottom. This will make them a bit heavier but you avoid trying to get the plywood to take that small LE radius and hold it without support between the nose formers. The tip rib has an even smaller radius.
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Old 10-28-2017, 03:31 PM   #293
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My first take is that I'll stick with aluminum for the aileron leading edge, since I feel like changing that gets into balance issues as well as making the construction more difficult. I don't need to put additional barriers in my way for this project.
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Old 10-28-2017, 03:43 PM   #294
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I don't disagree with that approach. What size nails are called for? 18ga nails are hard to find.
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Old 10-28-2017, 03:57 PM   #295
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I can't find a reference for the nail size, though I'm sure I'm just missing it on a sheet somewhere. I find myself wondering if the fine wire staples might be an acceptable substitute. I'll have to test that once I have some .016 aluminum to play with. Seems like there's about a 50/50 chance they'll just crumple when they hit the metal, though, particularly the longer leg length I'd want for this task.
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Old 10-28-2017, 04:04 PM   #296
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Hiding the nail heads will be much easier. Use a scribe to punch a hole for the nail which also dimples the metal a little. No filler required.
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Old 10-28-2017, 04:33 PM   #297
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Aluminum is a holdover really from production aircraft. Way easier to roll a piece of aluminum out and nail it down than mold some wood. Ply to me is win win. Stronger and puts weight where it can actually do some good unlike just about any other part of the airframe.
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Old 10-28-2017, 05:39 PM   #298
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I agree with TFF1. Making those leading edges from 2024-T3 will drive you nuts. By the time you get to them, your wood work skills will be perfected. Use them.

Another thing to consider is it is better if you have accurate aileron gaps. Easy to adjust with a wood block at the LE like the Pitts and we have learnt how wing leading edges tend to be more accurate when made from ply instead of aluminium.

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Old 10-28-2017, 06:48 PM   #299
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If I were to make the aileron leading edges with ply instead of aluminum, what thickness of ply would you use? Two layers of 1/32 AKA 0.8mm Birch like the wing leading edge? Or one layer? I'm concerned, possibly needlessly, that going to ply for the leading edge will disrupt the balance of the control, which I assume Ed built into the plans as drawn. Granted, I understand why more weight forward of the pivot would be good, but I worry about my lack of engineering skill making a change like this.
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Old 10-28-2017, 07:28 PM   #300
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Ian, the balance would not be a issue. And IF he actually has on plans how it’s suppose to balance (static, “x” inches forward of hinge point, etc etc) you could easily correct It to where it’s suppose to be with adding weights. Now the real trick is on most fabric controls there’s nowhere to add the weight after it’s covered so you have to do it before cover and paint. A good practice here is to paint the control with the leading edge UP. That way all the paint weight doesn’t go aft of the hinge line. (It does not take runs to make the paint weight change just by hanging...on some jets, Westwind comes to mind, they even spell this out for you. “When repainting always hang controls with trailing edge up for balance reasons”



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