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Old 12-13-2015, 05:42 PM   #101
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Finally getting to work on the wings again. The fire left ribs #2 and 3 pretty badly bowed and I have been agonizing over the fix. I had just about committed to removing the leading edge and building some sort of jig to build the ribs in place but what if they could just be straightened? Heat caused them to take a new shape so could heat be used to return them to normal? What did I have to loose.
I cut a section of Douglas fir the same shape as the rib between the spars and cut a slot for the drag wires to pass through, then clamped the rib straight with a couple of pipe clamps. A couple of carpenters shims were placed so as to over correct the bending as I Figured if it worked there would be some spring back. A little persuasion with a heat gun and the rib returned to straight. Yeah! Just have to do the same to the rib tails and the # 3 rib. I still have to replace the tip bow but that seems less monumental now.
The last photo gives a visual of the amount to be straightened.


IMG_7522.JPG   IMG_7523.JPG   IMG_7525.JPG   IMG_7529.JPG   IMG_7530.JPG  

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Old 12-13-2015, 07:51 PM   #102
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Would you be averse to using inter rib lacing on that one wing?
Normally would not need it with ribs this short, one of my wings has it, the rest do not, you can't tell once they are covered.


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Old 12-13-2015, 07:56 PM   #103
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Would you be averse to using inter rib lacing on that one wing?
Normally would not need it with ribs this short, one of my wings has it, the rest do not, you can't tell once they are covered.
I've actually thought about that. Great minds, right?
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Old 12-13-2015, 11:41 PM   #104
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I'd do it. At least you can be sure the rib line will look straight after cover, you won't be able to see the rib lacing.
I did one if my wings before I realized they didn't need it.
Way too much trouble to unstack those ribs to replace two just for the warping.
The compression ribs are still good right?
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Old 12-13-2015, 11:53 PM   #105
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All the other ribs are fine. The #2 and 3 ribs were drawn over when the glue let go on the root rib and the fabric continued to shrink. I didn't think the fabric was supposed to shrink past 350deg. but it did continue to shrink enough even to break the laminated wing tip bow. I think it actually broke because of the position light mount making a weak point in the bow. I'll be adding diagonal braces to the area of the bow at the position light.
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Old 04-29-2016, 02:02 AM   #106
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Here's more of the wing tip bow repair and a bit of a revelation as I understand more of how it was damaged.
The first photo is early in the build showing the original wing tip bow. I had added blocks above and below the laminated bow and plated the outside face with plywood because I knew that the hole for the Whelen tip light took out a major portion of the bow. This turned out to be inadequate support as in later before the fire photos showed some distortion in the bow between the spars. After the fire and the the fabric shrinking so much more from the heat the bow was broken in several places. I have since made a new bow and added support at the pad for the light. I will add similar support in the lower wings, even though the bow is not cut by a lighting pad but the fabric, as it shrinks, seems to be quite powerful.
0061.jpg   IMG_7314.JPG   IMG_7367.JPG   IMG_7545.JPG   IMG_7546.JPG  

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Old 04-29-2016, 02:25 AM   #107
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Neil,

The diagonal braces look like a good plan.

Piper J-3 and later series use aluminum channel braces anywhere in the perimeter of the wings where fabric shrinking may distort the structure.

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Old 04-29-2016, 02:55 AM   #108
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Neil,
That B&F box in the photo dates your build time!
Are you going to OSH this year?
Hope to have the Acro and Pitts there.
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Old 04-29-2016, 03:06 AM   #109
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Quote:
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Neil,
That B&F box in the photo dates your build time!
Are you going to OSH this year?
Hope to have the Acro and Pitts there.
Bought a lot of stuff from the guys at B&F. Nice folks.
No Oshkosh this year, paying for a wedding.
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Old 11-06-2016, 02:03 AM   #110
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Getting seriously back to work on my wings. Got the diagonal bracing in the lower wing tips today and the upper wings are about ready for cover. When I installed the trailing edge I chose to bond them in place with T88 with some cabosil mixed in. I drilled a 1/8" hole just over the rib tail so the epoxy could fill the hole and help lock in the location. The inside of the otherwise delicate trailing edge is filled with a Q cell/Flox mix. About 25% flox. The Q cell is pretty light but on it's own not very strong. The flox adds a bit of structure.
Lower wing.jpg   Trailing edge.jpg  
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Old 11-06-2016, 01:51 PM   #111
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As much as it sucks to have someone bend the TE getting in or out I think that's better than breaking a rib with the same misplaced knee. That said I may do some beef up of mine if I can figure out how to form it as I show below;

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Old 11-06-2016, 03:29 PM   #112
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A formed trailing edge like that would be great but it would take some serious tooling to make it a reality. I'm thinking of high volume production methods. May be able to do something on a small scale for shorter pieces.
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Old 11-06-2016, 04:33 PM   #113
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extruded method? (maybe the wrong alloy for extruding)

If the current trailing edge isn't sufficient, why hasn't someone come up with a better alternative? too expensive for the demand maybe.
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Old 11-06-2016, 04:54 PM   #114
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The current TE is fine -- been used for years, it's light and not very expensive. The knock is that's it can be a bit fragile. The good part about it being fragile is that it isn't as strong as the force it would take to damage the rib.

Neil, the TE pieces for my wings are pretty short. The ones on the ailerons are longer and they need to be curved at the end (if I can do them in one piece). I won't do the beef-up on the aileron parts since that will add weight aft of the hinge line that will have to be balanced. I'm going to try to make tooling for both forming actions so I can use the Pullmax. The last bend for the beefed-up parts is probably going to be the center one and the question is how to close it up completely. I have some ideas......
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Old 11-06-2016, 05:37 PM   #115
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Piper trailing edge is formed this way. If you want trailing edge like that you can probably buy blanks from Airframes Alaska, Dakota Cub ot Univair.
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Old 11-06-2016, 06:21 PM   #116
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How about that, Piper did it... But it spoils the fun of figuring out how to make it!

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Maybe the price Univair charges will still give me a reason to figure this out........
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Old 11-06-2016, 07:33 PM   #117
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I bought blanks without the Piper rib spacing from Alaska Airframes for a non Piper application. They are homebuilder friendly and the least expensive when I was buying. Univair is good quality and not cheap.


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