The Biplane Forum > Biplane Technical Forums > Firewall Forward & Fuel System > Anyone know a good engine rebuild shop.... Or: Hey, just had to dead stick my Pitts!



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Old 11-13-2017, 03:02 PM   #51
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I should have an engine fresh from an overhaul to sell in a month-ish if youre interested. Stock O-360 everything is either new or yellow-tagged, its getting assembled as soon as the last of the parts show up hopefully this week. PM me if that sounds like something youre interested in.


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Old 11-13-2017, 05:43 PM   #52
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Thats one that has to be opened up all the way. Make sure all oil lines and cooler is flushed. I don't know if you have fixed pitch or CS, but if CS have gov cleaned out too.


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Old 11-13-2017, 05:52 PM   #53
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Thats one that has to be opened up all the way. Make sure all oil lines and cooler is flushed. I don't know if you have fixed pitch or CS, but if CS have gov cleaned out too.
FP. I'll be sending out the oil cooler next week. And I am going to flush the lines, and inverted system as best I can. I assume, just pouring copious amounts of mineral spirits after I disassemble as much as I can is the method?
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Old 11-13-2017, 06:43 PM   #54
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You might consider starting your parts washer, plugging the nozzle into the end of a hose, and letting it flow through for an hour. Repeat for each hose. Teflon hoses are easier to get clean. Rubber hoses get sharp bits stuck in the inner walls. Inspect with a bright light. New hoses are cheap compared to trashing a second engine with debris from the first.

The firewall ball valve comes apart. Run the body through your parts washer.

The oil separator can is harder. Fill with parts washer fluid then shake well. Repeat a few times. Since you can't get inside it you might just want to throw it away and buy new.

Best of luck,

Wes
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Old 11-13-2017, 11:15 PM   #55
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Ron,
I think that upper box is for flop tube removal, the bottom is for the bungees
Dan
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Old 11-14-2017, 01:04 AM   #56
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Agreed, I ended up cutting a 1 hole in the firewall and making a stainless cover so I could change flop tube without all the hassle of shifting the tank. Way easier. 1 day job becomes one hour.
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Old 11-14-2017, 02:35 AM   #57
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Ron,
I think that upper box is for flop tube removal, the bottom is for the bungees
Dan
Very nice... So 15 or 16" flop tube?
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Old 11-14-2017, 02:58 AM   #58
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Send the slobber pot and the oil cooler to a shop who has a shake table and xray equipment. Pacific Oil Cooler does this.

Flushing out the lines should work and the 3 way ball valve can be completely torn down and flushed.

I've heard of people even changing out an oil pressure line since it was cheaper than getting a new engine contaminated.

Try to visualize where everything is that has oil running through it....governor, oil lines, oil cooler, slobber pot, etc. If oil goes through it then it needs cleaning. Debris can be trapped in the slobber pot and oil cooler. The shake table will break anything loose that couldn't possibly hidden.
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Old 11-14-2017, 12:04 PM   #59
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I thick we bought a 16 inch for Chads plane, he would n\know for sure.
Dan
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Old 11-16-2017, 11:03 PM   #60
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I used these folks when I had the engine on my RV-3 overhauled. Good folks to deal with. I was very happy with the result. My overhauled engine was strong and ran great.

http://aviationengines.net/

And kudos on getting on the ground safely!
These folks were super nice. But they honestly told me that they would not even be able to start on my engine till Jan.

Must be nice to be able to turn away work! But they were SUPER nice and I appreciate the honestly.
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Old Yesterday, 01:17 AM   #61
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The cigarettes and scratchers comment is hilarious.... glad ur back in the ground I went through the overhaul pain a few years ago. Used Sky Dynamics great to work with.


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