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Old 09-08-2015, 11:22 PM   #1
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Default Flying-wires Driving me Crazy

I've been trying, unsuccessfully, for 3+ days to get my wires tightened properly...had a few that were way too loose. A buddy loaned me his Christen tension meter and I loosened all the wires and started over by leveling the plane (almost level) and started with the landing wires. Then tried to adjust the others to get close to 750 on the back wires (assuming that's for landing and flying) and the front to between 60-80% of the rear. I can't even get close....

Developed a log to try and figure out how adjusting one wire affected the others and thought I'd figured it out. Thought my baseline of 550 on the landing and 400ish on the rear flying and 400ish (log at the airport) was good to start dialing it in. Was wrong, the more I adjusted, the worse it got. I'm lost...

What's the secret? Any, and all, help is appreciated!

Chad


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Old 09-08-2015, 11:55 PM   #2
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If you're trying to get equal tension based off a tensiometer you might be driving yourself insane chasing numbers. What tolerance are you trying to achieve? How much difference does a half turn make? Do you know about quarter turns on streamlined wires?


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Old 09-09-2015, 12:51 AM   #3
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On each side, as you tension the landing or flying wires, the tension on the opposite set of wires changes. You are pulling across the corners of a flexible box.

And you should have rigging boards on at least the top wing so that you do not inadvertently create dihedral or twist.

Do it in stages. Start with all loose then tighten the landing wires 1/4 of the tension. Then tighten the flying wires 1/4 and look at the rigging boards. Then tighten the landing wires some again. Then the flying wires. Check the rigging boards. Patience is required. Repeat the cycle and repeat again.

Best of luck,

Wes
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Old 09-09-2015, 01:56 AM   #4
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What Wes said. I spent two nights just tightening the 8 wires on my tail getting it just where I wanted it. I spent hours and hours, (OK days) with rigging boards, tightening my wing wires. I was just like you, no experience and no one here to help, so I took my time, and I like what I have. That said, this bird hasn't flown yet but I have seen no bad tendencies yet in high speed taxi. I also used a laser transit along with the rigging boards. Take your time, don't hurry and you will get there. I have to admit I started over several times over the space of several days. Next time it will be much quicker, and you will almost need the 1/4 turn on one side of a pair too. However there are people here who know so much more then me, I am speaking of starting from scratch as a neophyte. Loved every minute if it and learned a lot doing so. Do a search here and down load the rigging sequence for, I believe a Pitts or Acro Sport, but doesn't matter, it is for a bipe.
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Old 09-09-2015, 02:27 AM   #5
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One day I'll be tackling the same issue.
I don't have a clue!

Biplanes have been around since the beginning of flight time.
Surely some one has written a detailed step by step manuscript on the best practice of this important task? Pictures would also help remove doubt in the process, maybe.

If anyone knows of such a thing please let us know so that some of us can keep the wings and our minds level.
At the moment I am feeling this is some sort of wizardry
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Old 09-09-2015, 05:09 PM   #6
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Here is the reference I used (along with Bill and Mike). In short what it said was to rig the top wing, then hand tighten all the flying and landing wires.

http://pitts.co.nz/uploads/rigging/R..._the_Pitts.pdf

Then it said to pretty much leave the landing wires alone. I found that by tightening the flying wires, the landing wire tension would also rise.

So I put all the wires about 300# and then started tightening just the flying wires. I would turn maybe one turn on the left flying wires and then move and make one turn on the right.I would check the tensions on all wires and then I would then check the top wing again. If it was warped or had anhedral at this point, it was not going to get better with more tension so I stopped and put more washers under the I struts. Dihedral might have been fixed with more tension and tip up (wash in) might get fixed with more tension.

I then went to about half turn only on the flying wires. Then a half turn on the other side. Then I would check the tension and check the rigging boards and geometry between the wing and fuse.

I did this for a while being balanced and checking the geometry and the boards after each set of tightening.

I was surprised that tightening the flying wires would tighten the landing wires... But it did. The landing wires stayed about 100# higher than the flying wires.
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Old 09-09-2015, 06:06 PM   #7
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After a static adjustment the wires willl show a difference. And if you pluck them, they will sing slightly different notes. Then go do some snap rolls. They will even out as the structure shifts slightly.

Best of luck,

Wes
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Old 09-09-2015, 06:50 PM   #8
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Thanks guys! With this info I hope to have better luck. I'll report back with information after I get time to work on it more (getting ready for vacation next week, so airport time this week is not a given thing).
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Old 09-09-2015, 07:00 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freerangequark View Post
If you're trying to get equal tension based off a tensiometer you might be driving yourself insane chasing numbers. What tolerance are you trying to achieve? How much difference does a half turn make? Do you know about quarter turns on streamlined wires?
I was trying to get them w/in 50lbs or so of the same type wire (not sure what's required). I don't know about 1/4 turns, unless you can get that from the other end of the wire.

I missed your post initially....
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Old 09-09-2015, 07:33 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad View Post
I don't know about 1/4 turns, unless you can get that from the other end of the wire.
Read the link I posted. You can loosen the flying wire and flip the clevis 180* From the link: "It’s difficult to get the tensions of each wire in a pair equal, because there’s only a ½ turn “resolution”. However, if you can’t get them closer than 100 lb.,try this: turn either wire of the pair ¼ turn one way or the other and check tensions. If you can get it closer this way, de-tension the wire, take the clevis pin out of one end, rotate that clevis ½ turn either way, and re-install. This actually gives you a ¼ turn resolution, and helps a lot."


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Old 09-09-2015, 07:51 PM   #11
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The above only works with an S-2 type setup where you have a clevis at each end of the wire.
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Old 09-09-2015, 08:13 PM   #12
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On an S-1, could a thin washer be placed under the nut to add a little tension for the same number of turns?

Best of luck,

Wes
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Old 09-09-2015, 08:45 PM   #13
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For the S1 you can adjust the tension in tiny amounts at the non clevis end. No extra washers should be required.

You just pop the little access holes, slip a 7/16 deep socket over the lock nut, unlock, then align the two nuts, push socket over both and presto you can add what you want. I suppose if you bottom out you need to either add a washer or add a few turns at the clevis first. Adding a washer is tricky.. dont drop it!!

I found the trick was to not play with landing wires except to initially start with flying slack and adjust landing until things are level but top wing tips are about 1" up. Then tighten flying which will pull tips down and if you get it right wing comes flat at right tension. Landing wires tension themselves.
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Old 09-09-2015, 10:15 PM   #14
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A thin washer will probably be too much but a not real problem if everything tightens a bit different, you may get your 1/4 turn difference just at a different number of turns. Might take a couple of tries with different thickness washers. And that makes no difference to the over all goal. Mr. Rose your right, my Smith has a clevis at each end. Took me awhile to figure that one out (like maybe a couple of days!) as I needed that on one pair of wires.
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Old 10-18-2015, 03:17 PM   #15
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Anyone know of a video or DVD made on this subject? I have one more wing to paint on a Acrosport 1 and I will be facing the same issues. On my Starduster, I just kept them tuned to G# with a guitar tuner.


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