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Old 10-08-2017, 12:49 PM   #26
taff
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Originally Posted by Cameron View Post
Looking great Eric.
Thanks Cameron.
It's all trial and error stuff, this airplane building

The issue is:
1/
I have a constant speed prop, so no extensions from crank to prop flange. If I had a fixed pitch then I could add a 2 inch spacer before the prop.
2/
I had a regular nose bowl that has plenty of free space at the center and air intake.
I liked the Firebolt nose bowl and got that. Got rid of the std bowl and made the front end to match the Firebolt bowl.
I Invested too much time and effort to go changing all of the pointy end!

Bottom line = Firebolt bowl does not work with constant speed prop on my Skybolt

After I fix this air ramp problem I need to figure out some space for the magneto Alternator because the bowl is too far back.

I had a blunt nose started and shaped a bubble in the nose bowl for that and then someone changed the starter on me (for the front bearing type) and now I need to get the sawn off variety again.

One freekin thing after the other, and that's the thing with low experience in these matters!

Good thing this is a hobby And I am learning an awful lot!
I will keep posting photo's of the progress.


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Last edited by taff; 10-08-2017 at 03:46 PM. Reason: It is the Alternator not magneto (no idea!)
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Old 10-08-2017, 02:11 PM   #27
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Your workmanship is outstanding as always, Eric!


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Old 10-08-2017, 10:02 PM   #28
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Default first primer coat/filling pin holes

After sanding the fairing filler I noticed severe pin holes in the air ramps. This was expected, after sanding the surface of 'em.

Today I brushed an epoxy primer and then with a cloth rag smeared the primer around with hopes that a good amount of pin holing will be filled.
Later I will sand this primer and with luck I can apply the final steps
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Old 10-09-2017, 05:02 PM   #29
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I have experimented with brushing the epoxy or high solids urethane primer on top of the waxed glass or aborite molding surface and letting is cure, before laying up and bagging the layers of carbon. This acts like a gel coat and prevents the pin hole filling step that is always required. It works great but you don't get that awesome carbon fiber look. If you are going to prime and paint it anyways, it saves a step and you can see you pencil lines much easier than on black carbon.
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Old 10-09-2017, 06:01 PM   #30
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I have experimented with brushing the epoxy or high solids urethane primer on top of the waxed glass or aborite molding surface and letting is cure, before laying up and bagging the layers of carbon. This acts like a gel coat and prevents the pin hole filling step that is always required. It works great but you don't get that awesome carbon fiber look. If you are going to prime and paint it anyways, it saves a step and you can see you pencil lines much easier than on black carbon.
I agree.
Spraying a polyester gel coat does eliminate pin holes. Spraying west resin or brushing it and leaving to dry for an hour will also do the same. The idea is to experiment with the release agent first, that you don't disturb the release agent or get cratering because of the release agent. PVA is probably the best for this.

I used a wax on the glass, and saturated the first layer of carbon fiber with West resin before laying on top of the wax. All the other layers were brush applied.
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Old 10-11-2017, 03:36 AM   #31
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Default spraying them air ramps

I finally got the brushed on primer sanded down. That took some time for the small size.
There are some small pin holes left but maybe I can live with them? Who knows, I may sand and spray again.

I used a Sata HVLP Mini Jet gun with a 0.9mm tip and about 15 psi at the air cap. Nice and soft low pressure and tickled the trigger (about half trigger)
Too much pressure and full trigger coats and the paint would be flowing down the front of the nose bowl.

A couple of photo's to show my progress.

If this is satisfactory as air ramps.
My next job will be cutting out an area for the alternator = more to come
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Old 10-11-2017, 06:45 PM   #32
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Default Progress so far

A couple of photo's showing the nose bowl in position.
Still a little shaving to do on the aluminum side, but the air ramps are in.

My next mutilation of the nose bowl will be cutting a hole and making room for the alternator. Today I layed up some carbon fiber to construct a kind of bubble protrusion thing I can laminate into the bowl.
As time passes I will include some photos of that.

When I get all this figured out I can attempt to finish the baffling project.
It's only time


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