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Old 09-23-2017, 12:18 PM   #26
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Default Next Steps

Before getting the spars located in the racks, one last activity - cutting the internal flying wire pin holes through the front spars. I am doing both the lower sets of spars together then when it comes time to rack I will move to just one at a time

Pics below, setting up the plunge router to cut the 1" hole.


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Old 09-23-2017, 12:22 PM   #27
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Default Racks

Next step, get the spars levelled an into the racks, ribs slid on. Next step will be to do the drag anti-drag wires but I am still waiting on them from Steen (they were not shipped with my original order as they were late coming to Steen and missed my wing kit delivery.)

It looks like a real plane part.

Last two pictures.... trammel points used to ensure the spars are square relative to each other in the horizontal plane.


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Old 09-23-2017, 01:14 PM   #28
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Looking good Cam.

Keep in mind the pattern of drag wires before drilling holes. Just to keep them from interfering where the aileron hardware needs to be.

This was a little puzzling for me and I needed to draw up a schematic before I drilled.

Have you made your drilling guide block yet? That was a bit of a teaser!
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Old 09-24-2017, 12:14 AM   #29
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Man, those spars are a work of art..
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Old 09-24-2017, 04:08 AM   #30
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Man, those spars are a work of art..
They are.... and none of them my work
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Old 09-24-2017, 04:41 AM   #31
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Looking good Cam.

Keep in mind the pattern of drag wires before drilling holes. Just to keep them from interfering where the aileron hardware needs to be.

This was a little puzzling for me and I needed to draw up a schematic before I drilled.

Have you made your drilling guide block yet? That was a bit of a teaser!
Eric,

I chuckled when I read this. I have marked the top and bottom on front and rear so I know WHERE I have to drill, just struggling with HOW I will drill. Its easy on here to show all of our good work.... here is some of my bad - the attempt to make some jigs in 1" x 1" Aluminium square rod. Its nice for marking/scribing, but I can't drill it straight.

Attempt 1 : 35degree. Looks good from here.... turn it over and you will see it come out off centre

Attempt 2: Different layout, you will see that both sides are off centre, but more importantly not equally off centre and the angle comes at at 38.5 degrees which is useless for anything

So I can't drill these pieces without either the metal or the drill bit wandering.

I have a portable drill press, but getting it square and exactly at 35 degrees is problematic.

I have been watching Ray Moellers video and am going to try that method for my first wire and see if that works.

It is the one drilling activity I am very nervous about. The iStruts and the internal pin holes were easy, these ones, not so.
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Old 09-24-2017, 04:53 AM   #32
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I tried one of those drill guides and was not happy with the results. Maybe it will work when you have only the spar. I was working on an assembled wing.
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Old 09-24-2017, 02:09 PM   #33
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Cam.
I drilled through a high density wood, not much chance of rill bit drift because of grain pattern.

To do the drilling through the wood, I used a brad point drill bit.
On my Delta drill stand (that's the best I have) and adjusting the work plate, I figured out the angle (on a couple of scrap wood samples).
During this I was blocking and clamping my samples that they would not move out of position during the drill. Then when it came time to drill through the jig, again clamps from all sided and blocks to stop shift.

Then I glued in a steel tube as my drill guide.
Using a 12 inch drill bit with masking tape I could visualize the laser beam for one axis and I used a glass fiber rod down the diagonal for the other axis to align up the drill bit.

If you want to borrow the jig, PM me.
If anyone else has a jig they made. Maybe they can lend.
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Old 09-24-2017, 02:11 PM   #34
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I tried one of those drill guides and was not happy with the results. Maybe it will work when you have only the spar. I was working on an assembled wing.
Correct.
You can,t have the rib in the way.
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Old 10-05-2017, 07:18 AM   #35
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Eric. It arrived. You canít read it but it says Camellia Oil. IMG_1507187897.323140.jpg
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Old 10-12-2017, 06:38 AM   #36
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Well first set of holes drilled. My approach has been slide ribs into place, fit butt rib (not glued), then drill the four holes as 35 1/4" on the front and rear spars. Yesterday I glued the front block on and back drilled them this morning. Next will be to fit wires and check, then I will more quickly drill the remainders and get on with glueing the ribs and blocks in.

This is fun.

First hole through the front block.
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Old 10-13-2017, 03:07 AM   #37
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Eric. It arrived. You canít read it but it says Camellia Oil. Attachment 28800
I know, I have the same bottle.

This is good for a light lube for the slow moving drill bit and from their information, it does not negatively effect the pre gluing surface (if oil get accidentally smeared there)

If I remember correctly, I had to stop and pull out and wipe down the drill bit spiral often when drilling through the spar. Because there is no room for the waste wood to flush out with the jig stopping it.
Then re-lube it.
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Old 10-13-2017, 11:44 AM   #38
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Itís working well
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Old 10-13-2017, 01:17 PM   #39
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Re: Eric's post #33
We make lots of drill guides from both 4130 tube and sheet. If before you press the 4130 bushing into the wood, you harden it, it will last and stay accurate way longer. I bend a hook on the end of a 1/16 SS welding rod, and slide the bushing down the rod to the hook. Heat it up, while rolling, with O/A until red or orange, temp not real critical. Quickly dip it in a can of cold water, pumping it up and down to force water through the center. The key is to cool it quickly, if you just immerse it and let it sit, water boils forming a layer of insulating bubbles on the part, slowing the cooling. That's it. If you want to see the difference, put a scrap untreated in the vise and hit it with a hammer, heat treat another and do the same, wear safety goggles because it will break like glass. You can do the same to the edge of flat sheet to make custom die knives for a small shear. If I have a lot of holes to drill I dull the sharp SIDE edges of the drill bit, leaving the end and 1/8" up the side sharp. That way a flexing bit wont wear out the guide as fast.
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Old 10-17-2017, 10:03 AM   #40
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First bay done. Just tested the process from start to finish. Should now knock out the other two bays. IMG_1508234568.846595.jpgIMG_1508234598.238408.jpg

The metal on the blocks is titanium.
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Old 10-17-2017, 01:26 PM   #41
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First bay done. Just tested the process from start to finish. Should now knock out the other two bays. Attachment 29084Attachment 29085

The metal on the blocks is titanium.
Good clean work Cameron.
It's a great feeling when the wires are installed, especially after the time spent fretting before that first drill hole
Keep posting.


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