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Old 10-14-2017, 07:50 PM   #26
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This afternoon I brushed a little epoxy primer on.


DSCN6685 (1280x936).jpg   DSCN6686 (1280x960).jpg  
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Old 10-15-2017, 02:08 AM   #27
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Great work Taff, I have never liked the open nose cowling!


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Old 10-15-2017, 02:56 AM   #28
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I much prefer the Firebolt nose bowl. On most of the biplanes. Great work! I just didn't know If all this was something everyone has to do to use one why the heck the mold hasn't been changed.
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Old 10-15-2017, 03:26 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Lotahp1 View Post
I much prefer the Firebolt nose bowl. On most of the biplanes. Great work! I just didn't know If all this was something everyone has to do to use one why the heck the mold hasn't been changed.
I just didn't know If all this was something everyone has to do to use one.
As far as I now know, only a handful of builders.

why the heck the mold hasn't been changed?
Probably the Firebolt nose bowl works fantastic with a non constant speed prop, I can only assume there are no problems.

Because I already had the CS prop and If I knew this, I would have chosen the Skybolt bowl.
Like most things in life, It's compromise.
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Old 10-15-2017, 07:39 PM   #30
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Default Dimensions?

Does anyone have the dimensions across, top to bottom, spinner opening and depth of the bowl? I don't seem them listed on the Steen page.
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Old 10-15-2017, 09:44 PM   #31
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My real wonder is about the Ramps for the cooling. Seems others have had to make Ramps also and yours now incorporated into the nosebowl seem like a great solution. Was this designed for use with a fixed pitch prop and a prop spacer? If so I could see the Ramps being aluminum.

In any regards. I'm personally glad you went with this design. To me it's much prettier...most things that are pretty are a lot of extra effort though
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Old 10-16-2017, 12:09 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by Timbob View Post
Does anyone have the dimensions across, top to bottom, spinner opening and depth of the bowl? I don't seem them listed on the Steen page.
Thanks
A rough sketch.
untitled - Copy (1024x768).jpg  
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Old 10-16-2017, 04:13 AM   #33
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Default Thanks Eric....

Man, its a deep from the spinner opening, a Starduster nosebowl is only 5" deep.
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Old 10-19-2017, 03:02 AM   #34
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Default color is on

This afternoon/evening I sanded the brushed on epoxy primer and compounded the rest of the area in which I would blend out the color.

Using my mini spray gun I applied a thin coat of epoxy primer and then after a short time applied the color. Then fading out the color on the compounded area.
I used my hand to work as a moving mask to reduce the amount of overspray drift (keep the hand about 2" from panel and shift with the fan of the spray gun)

I had too much dust this time. I will later redo the thing and spray it in a spray booth. I am not set up for slow drying polyurethane.

Anyway I am done mutilating and with luck I can get back to installing the Van's engine cooling baffling.
DSCN6689 (1024x768).jpg   DSCN6691 (1024x768).jpg   DSCN6693 (1024x768).jpg   DSCN6694 (1024x768).jpg   DSCN6696 (1024x768).jpg  

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Old 10-19-2017, 07:01 PM   #35
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Default bump out done!

I fit the nose bowl on today. Done with the bump out.
Now I can get back to the baffles.
DSCN6699 (1024x768).jpg   DSCN6700 (1024x768).jpg  
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Old 10-19-2017, 07:35 PM   #36
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Eric,

I have just popped into this thread for a quick look. So, I am not sure if the following has been mentioned as of yet. It looks like your nose bowl was designed to go with an extended prop hub like on a twin Comanche. That would have moved the nose bowl forward 3-4” and allows clearance to the alternator and starter as well room to baffle and duct the 2 air inlets to the cylinders.
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Old 10-19-2017, 08:02 PM   #37
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Eric,

I have just popped into this thread for a quick look. So, I am not sure if the following has been mentioned as of yet. It looks like your nose bowl was designed to go with an extended prop hub like on a twin Comanche. That would have moved the nose bowl forward 3-4 and allows clearance to the alternator and starter as well room to baffle and duct the 2 air inlets to the cylinders.
Kevin.
I mentioned my predicament in post 29 and somewhere else.

Two things I have.
A constant speed prop
A manufactured front end, complete cowling (all painted up)

I live and learn.

Get rid of the CS prop (no)
Dump this bowl and get the Comanche bowl (no)
Start all over again with making the complete cowling (no)

That would be a lot of money and a lot of work.
One of the reasons for me opening this thread is that maybe someone else will benefit.

I have not given up yet. Who knows, am I out of the brambles?

I am still learning
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Old 10-19-2017, 09:47 PM   #38
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Eric,

The twin Comanche has a constant speed prop but it has a Long hub on it so the spinner back plate and blades are moved forward about 4”. Using that type of prop with the nose bowl you have would allow for all the components without the need for bumps. My point being, that nose bowl may have been designed with the Long hub constant speed props in mind even though it is being used on short hub props like yours with required modifications.

I’m not suggesting you change the path you are on with the cowling. Just speculating as to why those who use this fiberglass nose bowl may run into these issues.


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