Got an idea from another builder on this site. I liked his fuse tabs, so I asked him how he made them. That being said, I decided to make some (about 200 of them) and post it here, because I think it's a better idea than the plans tabs. Your mileage may vary, don't try this at home, I won't be liable, yada yada yada....
I used 1" x .025 strap, 4130. I wrapped ten straps together with masking tape so I could cut them in bunches. I recommend a band saw, but I used a chop saw. You'll see the heat signature on the cut lines.
I cut them 2" long at the longest point, with 1" at the shortest point. Basically, a 22.5deg angle...
I then locked each bundle in a drill press and drilled the center hole for the nut plate. I ended up with a big pile of this:
I then took some 1/4" x 1" steel bar and made a jig. I filed a radius on theedge used for bending.I used a nut plate for a drill guide and drilled the three holes in 2 pieces of the bar. I then inserted a #8 screw in the hole of one bar and welded it on one side. I cut the screw to length. It looks like this:
I then inserted a piece that had been cut, clamped in a vice, and bent it using light pressure from a small hammer. It doesn't take much to bend .025, so don't bang it all up...just tap it.
After bending, take the piece to a belt sander and drind a slight radius on the pointy tips. Just enough to remove the points is all you need:
I then use the bending jig as a drilling jig. Clamp the jig in a drill press vice, making sure the bit lines up with the existing holes in the jig. Then insert the bent piece and drill the hole. Repeat for the other hole.
After drilling, use a 120deg countersink to countersink holes, so it will hold a flush-mount rivet. Use CCC-32 cherry rivets, because you won't have access to the back of the tab for a bucking bar. The CCC-32 has a stainless mandrell and head, so corrosion won't be a problem. Also, you can't dimple the tab because once it's bent, you don't have accesss to the back side for the dimple tool....
Questions, comments....lay 'em out.
Thanks to Scott Rodriguez for the idea.....and check out his pics.
I used 1" x .025 strap, 4130. I wrapped ten straps together with masking tape so I could cut them in bunches. I recommend a band saw, but I used a chop saw. You'll see the heat signature on the cut lines.
I cut them 2" long at the longest point, with 1" at the shortest point. Basically, a 22.5deg angle...
I then locked each bundle in a drill press and drilled the center hole for the nut plate. I ended up with a big pile of this:
I then took some 1/4" x 1" steel bar and made a jig. I filed a radius on theedge used for bending.I used a nut plate for a drill guide and drilled the three holes in 2 pieces of the bar. I then inserted a #8 screw in the hole of one bar and welded it on one side. I cut the screw to length. It looks like this:
I then inserted a piece that had been cut, clamped in a vice, and bent it using light pressure from a small hammer. It doesn't take much to bend .025, so don't bang it all up...just tap it.
After bending, take the piece to a belt sander and drind a slight radius on the pointy tips. Just enough to remove the points is all you need:
I then use the bending jig as a drilling jig. Clamp the jig in a drill press vice, making sure the bit lines up with the existing holes in the jig. Then insert the bent piece and drill the hole. Repeat for the other hole.
After drilling, use a 120deg countersink to countersink holes, so it will hold a flush-mount rivet. Use CCC-32 cherry rivets, because you won't have access to the back of the tab for a bucking bar. The CCC-32 has a stainless mandrell and head, so corrosion won't be a problem. Also, you can't dimple the tab because once it's bent, you don't have accesss to the back side for the dimple tool....
Questions, comments....lay 'em out.
Thanks to Scott Rodriguez for the idea.....and check out his pics.