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O-200 CRANKSHAFT

footloose

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I'm looking for an O-200 O-200 crankshaft (Non serviceable) for a Mock up engine . Time to start on the mount . Anything reasonable within distance of Oklahoma . Shipping is getting way outta hand . All I have located are on left and right coast . Thanx Dennis
 

rich 85rf

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A-65 up to O- 200 Flange crankshaft is the same / except different in the rod through.
 

footloose

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Thanx Rich . I've got a manual on it's way . I didn't realize what will fit what (learning) . Any will work as long as it's a flanged shaft . I plan on putting an O-200 on my Smith , with higher compression and a bit stouter cam (looking for 110/115 HP) . Also TBI and 4 into 1 exhaust . Looking at the Continental for weight purposes . Small pic on your header of your Smith (looks nice) . Would like to see a blown up copy . Thanx again Love the Smiths
 

Don Adamson

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Dennis,
I have a red tagged C-85-F crank for you.
Red tagged O-200's fetch $1000 as a core from Continental, making them worth $500 on the street. I have a couple of those also.
 

rich 85rf

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I used a new O-200 crankshaft, O-200 cyl, pistons, rods, and C85 camshaft. I did try to use the C85 pistons ( with the 30 degrees shaved edge for the head clearance), rods but the C85 rods would not clear the camshaft. It would have worked if I put the O-200 camshaft BACK in, But I was saving the O-200 camshaft for another engine. And you have to use the right lifters for which cam you are using. The C-85 developer's hp at a little less RPM than the O-200. It took a lot of time and Balancing (one-tenth of a gram), Plus I sent the Prop out for overhaul. I have another engine running just like this one, and it makes you SMILE with JOY!










joy
 

tdwrv8

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I used the 85 rods in my cassutt with 0200 crank. You need to mill the caps off like the 0200's
 

tdwrv8

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Problem is the opposing cylinder skirts not the cam. I had an 0200 cam as well.
 

deaneborghi

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Is your engine build along the same lines as “Don’s Dream Machines”, where you can cobble together a C-85 with O-200 crank and O-200 jugs? 100-115 hp is what I’m aiming for when I get started on an engine for my Super Baby. If anyone has details or parts, I’d appreciate any help you would offer.

 

footloose

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Hey Dean , that would be right in line with what I have in mind . I have decided to go with a Continental for weight reasons and if there's a possibility of producing 110/115 HP , that's where I'd like to be . From what my researching has compiled I think the Continental is approx. 40 lbs lighter than a smaller Lycoming . O-235/O-290 and with the lighter weight throughout , it would be enough power (minus the considerable torque advantage) of the Lycomings . Trying to stay as light as possible . I also would like to go with a TBI and 4 into 1 header . I've combed through Harry Fentons Hints and tips before . Very helpful . I feel that the little Continental with a bit of younger blood for internals would be fine for the Smith or Baby . I'll be watching your posts .
 

footloose

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I'm eyeing a WhirlWind Carbon fiber ground adjustable prop . They do not reccomend any RPM's over 3000 . To turn over that will require a different route for prop choices . Not a real issue , just dig a little deeper .
 

deaneborghi

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See, I figured that if Jack Link’s “Screamin Sasquatch” and the late Jimmy Franklin’s WACO can run as a bipe with a big ol’ jet engine tucked up under the belly, we could do the same but with a little TJ-100 and some leftover downspout gutter pipe. I’m in if you’re in.
 

footloose

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Actually , I'm using the Dracula paint scheme on my Smith . Possibly Kyle as pilot at the Kosh Airshow ? Baby Waco .
 

TFF1

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Unless it’s a race plane, 2700-3000max is all you want. Unlike a car, the physics of the prop is not going to let you spin it faster and make it work. Otherwise it will have to be a toothpick of a prop that will not pull. I like the small Continentals, but O-200s are getting to be valuable. That’s where the O-235s have it beat. A little stronger too. You can get 120 hp out of one with a regular prop not one that is three feet in diameter.
 

tdwrv8

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My Cassutt was a sport model, not a race version and turned 3400 with a 60" heggy. Lots of the formula 1's turn over 3800. You do reach a point where the torque falls off faster than the rpm increase. Otherwise you could get infinite horsepower. My clip wing Tcraft with 0200 and 7443 will turn 2700 flat out and pulls like crazy. It is completely stock. 7440 would probably turn 3000.
 

footloose

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I'm not interested in over revving and the fireworks that come with it and definately not trying to set my hair on fire to keep up with the Pitts guys . I'm building for , first , dependability , reasonable preformance , light weight (I'm not built like a ballet dancer) and not to forget , a lighter load on the wallet when it comes to fuel burn . At 70 I'd be a fool to expect flaming preformance , just a really nice little Smith MiniPlane that hopefully will not test me with a still prop but rather one that will allow me to go up and enjoy the view through the wires at around 5 1/2 GPH and test my dancing capabilities on roll out . I'm actually going for docile with a little twitch added . I'm learning as I go so all input is never looked at negatively . Been doing this for over 40 years in many forms and lovin every minute of it . Thanx guys . I still like the looks of the WhirlWind set up and 3000 max
 

deaneborghi

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Cheap, easy, and reliable. That’s my game too. At 195 lbs I’m no ballet dancer either. My powerplant has got to be light, but have just enough hp to scoot me around the sky effectively and efficiently, but not much more (the pancake fly-ins await!). The Smith and BGL are *tiny* and need to stay within their realm. Sure there are a couple out there running bigger engines, but weight is the issue all around, so it’s always a game of give-and-take.

To reiterate, if anyone has good leads on parts for the future buildup of a C-85/O-200 stroker, please keep me posted.

That Dracula paint sounds cool, footloose. Go for it! I’m leaning towards something which incorporates the colors and patterns of the Yuengling Black and Tan beer can. It speaks to me, seeing a few black scallops on a cream wing, black fuse with cream teardrop, black/cream tailfeathers, and some gold trim script and pinstripes. Lucious. BB47342A-726C-4DAF-8B68-D205F417CE1C.jpeg7111CE39-98E2-444C-9557-315EED367CC8.jpeg
 

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