For engine baffling I am using a RV-10 kit, which mostly fits pretty well. I have a narrow deck case so there is a couple of differences from the kit and the engine. One is a missing hole in the case for attaching a baffle (I have found on-line threads where some RV owners discovered this and DRILLED holes in assembled engine case and threaded the hole only to find the case very thin there!!! You really have to watch some of these RV builders closely.....). I made new brackets to fix but there is a slight problem with prop governor cable. The baffle kit comes with a prop gov cable bracket that attaches to the left front baffle plate allowing the cable to come from underneath. This looks like the best way to route the cable but it also presents a dilemma. I can use that bracket except for the following issues: I need to have the gov both re-clocked and the have the gov set up for CCW direction. Whirlwind has stated this is not a problem. I need to re-clock it no matter what I do anyway and: Apparently RV designed the bracket to use a prop cable with 2.5 inch travel. A standard 1760 will not work. I need a non-standard length anyway but ACS wants 190 for custom length and custom RV travel of 2.5 inches. At this point 190 doesn't bother me much, so maybe the best way to go. Just figuring out exact length and waiting for the cable. I think this is the best way but I ask anyway. or I could use a Cable Safe II (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/cablesafe2.php) combined with a wire grip (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/wiregrip.php) and then use a standard 10-32 cable bearing end and just use a solid wire vernier prop cable. This would allow me to use the RV kit without a custom assembled cable. The length of the set up might cause baffle seal issues as well. Is this a good set up to use otherwise? This would make my life much simpler but I am concerned about cable flexing as it goes thru the arc on a 1.5 Radius arm. Long term will it hold up as well swivel ended pre-made cable? The S2 A/B/c? uses a bracket that apparently goes between the case and the head and attaches the cable to it and comes over the top of the cylinders. (Aviat wants a whopping 350 bucks for the bracket fyi). They use a different governor and I am not sure this style will work with the Jihostroj governor but maybe ok with a custom design. Big thing is I need to elevate the cable to come down at an angle due the short radius arm on the governor. And does a bracket like this have to be special to expand and contract with the engine when going between the head and case? Maybe why it is 350? Alternately, I have seen some create a bracket across the pushrod tubes using adel clamps. I would also need to elevate the cable to come down at an angle. This one bothers me a bit. Is this reliable? using both adel clamps and pushrod tube tubes? Engine baffle kit also comes with two plates to block the front cylinder head cooling fins. It only covers the front cylinder head fins near the baffle and not all of them. This would seem to make sense to keep the front cylinders from staying too cool while the back ones are comfy. I don't often see this kind of plates but I have seen them on a couple of aerobatic planes. I am inclined to install them unless informed that they create issues. I would think all cylinders evenly warmed up are better than cool ones. I can always remove later.