SA-100 Progress

Discussion in 'Starduster' started by Dave Baxter, Nov 15, 2015.

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  1. Nov 15, 2015 #1

    Dave Baxter

    Dave Baxter

    Dave Baxter

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    Have been working on my single place clone of Lou Stolp's second SA-100. and here are some pictures of the new truss, upper and lower wings almost ready to cover and my latest a swing out engine mount. this is for all you guys that have or are building or re building the SA-100 single place Starduster.

    SAM_0015 small .jpg

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    Neil, biplanebob, Jerry and 3 others like this.
  2. Nov 15, 2015 #2

    Lotahp1

    Lotahp1

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    Looking great Dave!
     
  3. Nov 15, 2015 #3

    will moffitt

    will moffitt

    will moffitt

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    Pretty crafty for an old guy Dave. My ailerons are cable driven, any advantage to yours, not that I am going to change them.
     
  4. Nov 15, 2015 #4

    EAABipe40FF

    EAABipe40FF

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    Very nice Dave!


    (Completely different animal, the ailerons on the Tu-holer are cables and I find them not that great)

    Like I said, COMPLETELY different animal, I suspect I will enjoy the ailerons on my SA750 VERY MUCH! :D

    Jack
     
  5. Nov 15, 2015 #5

    cwilliamrose

    cwilliamrose

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    Will,

    It's a more positive connection -- no cable stretch. It can also be much lower friction. Overall just a nicer feel......
     
  6. Nov 15, 2015 #6

    starn11gy

    starn11gy

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    Awesome glad to see you are still making progress!! Keep the updates coming.
     
  7. Nov 15, 2015 #7

    StinsonPilot

    StinsonPilot

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    Looking good Dave! Wish the weather would cooperate so I can get down there, love to see it in person.
     
  8. Nov 15, 2015 #8

    Dave Baxter

    Dave Baxter

    Dave Baxter

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    Doug the annual on the Skybolt is done, and I did the local Veterans Day flyover with Ted using the Skybolt. Dave
     
  9. Nov 16, 2015 #9

    TFF1

    TFF1

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    That is some nice fab work. It is interesting how different these things are built. Your drag braces are bolted, mine welded. Your ailerons and my friend's are pushrod, mine cable. Your rod between the rear cabane is different.
     
  10. Nov 16, 2015 #10

    will moffitt

    will moffitt

    will moffitt

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    I guess it is like the difference in the Tarus and the Saab or Porsche. They all three cruise down the road just fine but the Ford just doesn't feel as nice on the back roads, but for the price........
     
  11. Nov 19, 2015 #11

    Mike Harris

    Mike Harris

    Mike Harris

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    Dave, you do some damn fine work buddy!I presume the paint scheme is a foregone conclusion?
     
  12. Dec 2, 2015 #12

    Dave Baxter

    Dave Baxter

    Dave Baxter

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    SA-100 Swing out engine mount fabrication and welding. Dave

    SAM_0703 small.jpg

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    SA-100 Swing out Engine mount small25.jpg
     
    taff likes this.
  13. Dec 2, 2015 #13

    will moffitt

    will moffitt

    will moffitt

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    Nice mount Dave, wish I had a swingout.

    will
     
  14. Dec 2, 2015 #14

    Mike Harris

    Mike Harris

    Mike Harris

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    The swing out engine mount is lookin’ good Dave!
    Hot –formed gussets are particularly cool.
    BTW, I keep hearing you say: “The idea is to fly OVER the mountain, not through it!” every time I step into the shop. Great mantra – Thanks buddy!
    Mike
     
  15. Dec 2, 2015 #15

    TFF1

    TFF1

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    Looks like you have done that more than once.
     
  16. Dec 2, 2015 #16

    skyboltone

    skyboltone

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    How much does this move the engine forward? It sure looks good.
     
  17. Dec 3, 2015 #17

    Dave Baxter

    Dave Baxter

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    Dan The original engine mount drawings show an 8" mount, and as you know that does not give any room to work on the back of the engine. My mount is 10" long with 1.5 degrees of down thrust so it would be 2" farther forward than the plans. It will have a ground adjustable stabilizer with a servo trim tab. I am moving the upper tube behind the pilot back several inches, also I will have a large baggage compartment above and below the upper longeron along with the battery behind the seat. Also I am going to install one more elevator idler arm between the reverser and the aft control idler arm. At least that is my plan right now. Originally I thought about adding several inches to the fuselage behind the cockpit, but at this time do not think I will need to, at least until I get some firm numbers . I am trying to get many of the locations for the fuel tank, instrument panel, control stick, seat, turtle back, fire wall, and rudder pedals roughed out. Currently working on the rudder pedals, am adapting Cessna pedals to this airplane with Gerdes master cylinders similar to mine and my son Dan's Starduster Toos.

    I am shooting for 800lbs empty with electrical radios and nav lights. Also I have the later taller gear that is very close to the newer drawings. That place the axles 9.5" aft of the fire wall datum. Also the airplane needs to set when in three point at around 10.5 to 11.5 degrees when measured at the upper longeron. This give plenty of prop clearance, and also when the airplane pays off in three point (Stalls) in ground effect makes the main gear and tail wheel go on together that usually results in a good controlled landing, one that makes people think you know what you are doing, even when you don't?

    I want my airplane to look as much as possible like Parker's N2314C the second prototype, with few additions or changes. I have not decided whether to put four smaller ailerons as the original full span three hinge lowers works okay, as these ailerons are currently covered through silver, and the wings are pretty much ready to cover. So cutting into them would mean a lot more work, I do have all of the material spruce for the spars and plywood to do so, including some small streamline tubing and rod ends for slave struts, but I also want to see it fly before I fall off the end of the earth?

    The wings like I said are pretty much ready to cover, just need some minor leading edge work on all four wings and on the uppers some center section finish work for the wing tanks mounting and cover attachment as well at tip light wiring and airspeed plumbing.

    Once the basics are done, hopefully over the next few months I want to rig it and install the flying and landing wires along with mounting the engine, tail surface's wheel pants and see what it is going to look like, as well as a preliminary Weight & Balance. I have a metal prop spinner and nose bowl to stick on temporarily, so we shall see what we shall see? Dave

    SAVE0000 SA-100 small.jpg

    Sa-100 Landing gear drawing small.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2015
  18. Dec 6, 2015 #18

    skyboltone

    skyboltone

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    I've been eyeing N2314C also since you posted it's photo in the other SA-100 thread. I've even used the photo for "wallpaper" on my computer so that I look at it every time I go on-line. It has a smooth lower cowl that all of your airplanes seem to have and a shape I would very much like to achieve. I'm not sure how you make that shape with the airbox hanging off the bottom of the carburetor though. We'll take a trip up to see family towards spring and I can drop by and take a look at how you do that. My cowl has a "chin" or lump there on the bottom that looks kind of chunky and out of place. Or so it seems. I imagine one way is to buy the forward facing sump $$$ and Airflow Performance injection system $$$ to bring all that stuff up out of the way. I'm thinking that one might gain 6" or more bottom clearance that way but then the exhaust might want to come up too and off we go you know? Get it flying is my goal now and the distractions are slowly subsiding as we head into deep winter. I'll be starting assembly of the engine shortly. There really isn't that much to do to get it flying again. According to the Canadian paper work the thing weighs 923 pounds. I don't know how it got the porky but that's what it says. Gordon Nauta had it at 886. We'll lose #20-#30 on the propeller, #5 maybe on the smoke system, and a few pounds on the starter but beyond that I really don't know. Until I get it on the scales it's just guess work. When you look at the difference between the O-290 and the O-320 it's clear that the weight difference is in the crankshaft, so weight goes back on with the new engine. I had originally thought I would try a TBI but after reading the Rotec thread here I'm not about to go that direction now. A PS5C doesn't gain me anything over true injection except the cost of a used sump. Decisions, decisions. The above drawing of the gear might tempt me to give building a set a try. Otherwise I still think I'll send this old gear up your way to fit. Thanks. I got a first class TIG machine in the house just this week but no practice as of yet. I don't imagine I'll have too much trouble with it as I've got thousands of hours of experience on the job in other welding processes. A puddle is a puddle right?

    Anyway, enough of that. It's good to see you're making progress.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2015
  19. Dec 6, 2015 #19

    Knight Twister

    Knight Twister

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    How about some advice from an internet troll. Get the engine built and running, get the airplane flying and go fly it. You will have a blast flying it and you can't see that cowl line you don't like from sitting in the drivers seat. Yes, that airplane would look better with the new gear but where does it stop. You have a nice bird there. Once you fly it you will want to keep flying it. Biplanes are very addictive.
     
  20. Dec 6, 2015 #20

    skyboltone

    skyboltone

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    You are of course correct here. But, it gets the new taller gear regardless. The cowl will work fine for now and I may never care.
     

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