Finally done the painting!!!

Discussion in 'Christen Eagle' started by Cary Cumberland, May 13, 2018.

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  1. May 13, 2018 #1

    Cary Cumberland

    Cary Cumberland

    Cary Cumberland

    Cary Supporting Member

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    Well guys, I’m happy to report 9 months later the painting is finished. As many of you know it’s quite the task to paint a biplane, the eagle scheme doesnt make it easier. Now to sanding and polishing, assembling and the FAA inspection for airworthiness. We used the Stewart System to paint, as many of you have found out it’s not the easiest paint to lay down a glassy finish, it’s almost impossible compared to urethane that just seems to flow like glass. BUT to be able to paint without the toxicity in a homemade paint booth, I would use it again. As with any amateurs, by the time I finished I could lay down a pretty good pattern that would flow out pretty good and with ALMOST no orange peel. A couple things I learned about painting in general and this paint that I found to work for me. There are a couple ways to do it but here is what I found most effective at the end for best results.

    1. For long straight lines, green 3m 218 fineline. When I could use blue fineline, I would, less bleed throughs than the green but hard to make straight lines.
    2. Press down all tape overlaps right before spraying with your fingernail or a sharp knife to help with bleed throughs.
    3. Use a viscosity cup with the paint to get the consistency right for better results spraying.
    4. I like the eco prime for sanding vs the eco fill, it’s easier. Used a DA when I could to cut down the time but still took a long time.
    5. BUY the best spray gun to help you right out of the gate. I used the devilbis finishline gun $250ish and I got all I could out of it, I should have bought the tecna pro light gun they sell for $450ish.
    6. Follow Stewart’s Direction on cleaning surfaces exactly, it helps. Many times I would start to deviate and find I skipped something ending in a bad result.
    7. My final spray technique that worked the best for me. 2-3 light fog coats, holding the gun 12” away, moving pretty quickly to bring color up to saturation. I would do this in one session, as soon as I finished one coat I would go back and start the next coat right away in a perpendicular pattern to avoid tiger stripping. Paint would look like 1000grit sandpaper with low sheen when I finished. Then wait 45 minutes, come back in and lay down one wet coat and your done. Turn the fluid up a little more on the gun slow down your speed, the finishline gun needed to be about 4-6” from surface, tighten my overlaps up and be careful not get a run or orange peel. Orange peel was to little paint, run to much, practice keeps you in the small sweet spot. MOST IMPORTANT PIECE FOR ME IN PAINTING WAS SUPER LIGHT, ON AN ANGLE TO WHAT I WAS PAINTING TO BE ABLE TO SEE THE PAINT FLOW BEHIND THE GUN. THIS IS CRITICAL TO A GOOD PAINT JOB, SEEING THE PAINT FLOW TO DETERMINE IF YOU NEED TO GO BACK OVER IT FOR ANOTHER PASS. LIGHT COLORS ARE MUCH HARDER TO SEE THAN DARK COLORS. A rolling light stand would be a good idea.
    8. I didn’t clear the paint, from what I’m finding so far, sanding and polishing will work to eliminate orange peel on this paint but it’s like everything WORK. I have been talking to a super knowledgeable guy by the name of Mark Moser about sanding and we have come up with a system now that seems to work with this paint and yield decent results. My method now is wet sand by hand with 1200 to get 80% of the orange peel out, then 1500 wet to get 15%, and 2000 wet for 4%, 3000 on the DA and 5000 on the DA. If you use the DA for the early cuts instead of by hand you get pig tails in the paint that won’t come out. Then I machine polish with the 3m perfect system 1,2,3. Final product is pretty good.
    The pics below are before sanding and polishing.

    I wanted to get some thought down for everyone before I forgot them. Again this worked for me, hope this helps others.

    Hopefully we can get to Oshkosh

    20180501_094442.jpg

    20180501_152540.jpg

    20180228_201313.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 13, 2018
  2. May 13, 2018 #2

    Cameron

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    Congrats Cary. Finishing the paint is huge milestone.
     
  3. May 13, 2018 #3

    Lotahp1

    Lotahp1

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    Looks great! I haven’t seen those colors used before. A nice “classy” rendition of a classic scheme. Im amazed at the amount of effort. A lot of guys would simply paint and maybe, maybe buff with the perfect series of products. I guess that’s the key...knowing the paint job isn’t as good as you want till you sand, sand, sand some more, then buff and buff etc etc.
     
  4. May 14, 2018 #4

    Cary Cumberland

    Cary Cumberland

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    Thanks,yes we went with a different color scheme. I haven’t seen this one used either. The sanding is something that Is kind of fixing a rookie paint job. It still has flaws and can be seen but it’s the best I can do.
     
  5. May 14, 2018 #5

    scottseagle2

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    Looks great, hopefully I can see it at Oshkosh!
     
  6. May 14, 2018 #6

    RKO

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    Wow!


    Very nice!!!!!!!
     
  7. May 14, 2018 #7

    StinsonPilot

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    Love the colors!
     
  8. May 14, 2018 #8

    raymoeller

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    That's going to be a gorgeous airplane once you put her all together!
     
  9. May 14, 2018 #9

    smizo

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    cant wait to see this one together...... gonna look good pulling up in formation with you and your brother...... :cool:
     
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  10. May 15, 2018 #10

    Taildragger

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    Sharp color choice.
     
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  11. May 15, 2018 #11

    Cary Cumberland

    Cary Cumberland

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    Thanks guys, Smizo that will be cool to fly formation with all the biplanes.
     
  12. May 15, 2018 #12

    ultimate200

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    Looks awesome...i like it!
     
  13. May 15, 2018 #13

    Beej

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    I am in the early stages of paint. I hope mine comes out like this! Nice.

    One tip I read somewhere regarding this....:
    Press down all tape overlaps right before spraying with your fingernail or a sharp knife to help with bleed throughs.

    ....is to use an airbrush to spray a little clear coat into where the tapes overlap; the clear seals the overlap, and if there is bleed through, it's the clear, which gets buffed out later.
     
  14. May 15, 2018 #14

    taff

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    Use your fingernail not a sharp knife. That would damage the blue fine line tape.

    As to the airbrush/clear method, overreduce the clear and make sure the clear is compatible with what your spraying on top.
     
  15. May 15, 2018 #15

    TFF1

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    If you are not using clear coat, you spray the field base color on the tapes. Colors on top of white, spray white on the tape edges.
     
  16. May 15, 2018 #16

    Beej

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    I didn't understand any of that....:confused:
     
  17. May 15, 2018 #17

    taff

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    Shoot a thin coat of clear with airbrush on edge of tape.
    That recommendation/tip is from the old custom paint jobs,using lacquer type material such as house of color brand.
    One could probably still get away with it (using a lacquer type clear) and then spray the urethane top coat. If you can find a lacquer clear?
    My tip would be for the second color:
    First good solvent cleaning then alcohol/water cleaning. Good tack cloth and don't press the tack resins out of the cloth.
    Now use the 3m blue fine line tape (don't stretch) and press and secure with back of finger nail. Ones hands are always kept clean.

    Work the curves one little stretch at a time and secure/press with finger/thumb of opposite hand.
    If the tape starts pulling away from substrate at the curve, probably better to use a narrower tape for this area.
     
  18. May 15, 2018 #18

    Beej

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    Ok, it took a while for the penny to drop....what you are saying is, the clear coat trick can be done using the base color instead. :0)
     
  19. May 15, 2018 #19

    cwilliamrose

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    That wouldn't work if the base color tended to bleed into the top coat. I did two airplanes with the red and white Pitts-type scheme and for both airplanes I painted the red first because I was using polyurethane paint. The red won't bleed once it cures and it was the majority color so it went on first. I didn't do the clear trick on those two airplanes, I was just careful about the details of the masking and I cleaned up any bleeds after the fact. After -- as in before the paint cured but after it started to dry. With the base coat fully cured you could use solvent to remove bleeds or even gently scrape off a bleed with a dull Exacto blade. Neither method damaged the base coat significantly (if at all) and the 'repair' was much less visible than the original problem.
     
  20. May 15, 2018 #20

    smizo

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    ^^^^^ this...... using a dull razor works fantastic to "pop" off the paint that seeps through the seam on the tape. we do it all the time. I would do that rather than another coat of paint regardless if its clear or base coat. youll be building up more paint along the tape making the ridge of paint even taller on the stripe.
     

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