Brian's Skybolt rebuild

Discussion in 'Steen Skybolt' started by bneub, Oct 17, 2017.

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  1. Oct 17, 2017 #1

    bneub

    bneub

    bneub

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    I've been working on this project for a while and I finally decided to do a rebuild thread. For a while, I wasn't sure I really wanted to post my project. Then I started to think about all of the great information I now have from everyone else who has taken their time to post. Maybe I can give someone else an idea, answer a question, or illustrate how not to do something - possibly pay it forward.

    The first posts are definitely a time lapse and will give the illusion that I work much more quickly than I actually do.

    Here was my first look at it.

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  2. Oct 17, 2017 #2

    bneub

    bneub

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    Since I'm home today after a little dental work, I'll try to catch up the progress some. Hopefully the pain meds don't lead me too far astray!:p. I suppose I'm better of typing on the iPad than trying to work in the shop. I'd rather be in the shop though!

    Loaded up in the trailer and in my shop at home...

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  3. Oct 17, 2017 #3

    bneub

    bneub

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    The basic plan:
    1. Strip everything down and start from the ground up.
    2. Build up an above average 540 to hang on the front.
    3. Install an overhauled MT prop.
    4. Build a sliding canopy.
    5. Recline the pilot seat a couple of inches.
    6. Extend the sheet metal to the back of the rear cockpit.
    7. New composite cowl.
    8. Try to keep it light.

    That sounds simple enough said the rookie, I should be able to handle that.
     
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  4. Oct 17, 2017 #4

    bneub

    bneub

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    Someone suggested keeping the top wing covered, maybe refresh the paint.

    After looking it over and peeling the paint off in several places with my finger I decided why redo everything else and leave the top wing alone. Before I could think about it again I got out the razor blade and crossed the point of no return.

    I feel better after being able to see everything anyway.

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  5. Oct 17, 2017 #5

    bneub

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    Wow, this seems pretty easy. Cut wires, unbolt stuff, take out screws and all of a sudden the fuselage is ready to be blasted! Oh and take 1,000 pictures so I can remember how to put stuff back together.

    If only it would go back together as quickly!

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  6. Oct 17, 2017 #6

    bneub

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    After blasting, the fuselage went back to the shop I got the project from and they reclined the pilot seat.

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  7. Oct 17, 2017 #7

    ioneater

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    Brian,

    Hello from an Eastern Colorado native! I graduated high school in Flagler. Lived in Burlington for a couple of years, too. Relatives in Arriba who used to run an ag spraying business. I've got a friend named Row Carwin that still lives in Wray, I believe.

    Anyway, thanks for sharing your progress with the Skybolt....I agree with you that what we share may in turn help someone else down the line. I know I've learned and forgotten a ton of useful stuff here.
     
  8. Oct 17, 2017 #8

    Dave Baxter

    Dave Baxter

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    Nothing to it, nice welding my friend...Dave
     
  9. Oct 17, 2017 #9

    bneub

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    It's a small word for sure. I was just in Flagler last week. I know several Saffers down there.
     
  10. Oct 18, 2017 #10

    bneub

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    Thanks Dave but I can't take credit for the seat recline welding. A shop did that part for me as part of the purchase. There has been and still will be plenty of welding for me to do though.
     
  11. Oct 18, 2017 #11

    bneub

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    Shaving a little weight from the cylinders.

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  12. Oct 18, 2017 #12

    bneub

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    Sky Dynamics exhaust arrived!

    They have long lead times but have been great about answering questions and offering advice.

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  13. Oct 18, 2017 #13

    bneub

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    Cold air setup arrived a while later but I ran into a couple of problems.

    Sump fitting was put in the wrong spot and...

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  14. Oct 18, 2017 #14

    bneub

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    ...the welder cracked the sump.

    I got a refund on the sump and ordered the Sky Dynamics sump. It should be here in about three weeks.

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  15. Nov 1, 2017 #15

    bneub

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    Time to design the electrical system.

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  16. Nov 1, 2017 #16

    bneub

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    A few questions...

    The plane had a ground power plug before. Is it worth the weight to reinstall it with the wiring and contractor? If I keep the battery maintained, how frequently would I need it? I’m new to injected planes and potential hot start challenges.

    I plan to use the small G3X display for all engine and flight instruments. The plan was not to need any other gauges in the panel. It would be turned on after engine start with the avionics. That won’t give me oil or fuel pressure on engine start until that system can boot up. That makes me a little nervous. Should I install any old school analog gauges for startup? I appreciate any advice.

    I was going to ask this on the RV forum but I didn’t want to add one extra alternator, two extra batteries, three more displays, four auto pilot servos, five thousand more feet of wire, and sixty pounds. :D.

    Just kidding, I spend a little time in a couple of friend’s RV’s, good planes!
     
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  17. Nov 1, 2017 #17

    EAABipe40FF

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    First, I know nothing about new glass systems.

    I think I'd want at least a analog oil pressure gage. I only have a PC680 battery on my AD2 /IO320. I do worry about battery
    charge/hot start. I have this unit. Very light, I bought it for a G-meter but it also has battery voltage, clock, stop watch etc. It's wired hot so you always have the battery voltage handy.

    http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/in/accelerometers/flightdatafc50.php

    My hot start procedure is full throttle/mixture idle cutoff. Engine usually fires quickly after a couple turns---then quickly reverse throttle and mixture control. Again, I really do not want to have insufficient battery for a hot start. My technique is pretty good and my brakes are effective but having to prop a hot injected engine is something I like to leave in my memory. I once shared a hanger with my mentor's old factory S1S w/o starter and often propped his hot IO360. He knew his engine and I has absolute trust in him. I would hesitate to do the job for someone I didn't know.

    Propping a hot IO540, I might want it tied down? (The most fun-NOT- I ever had as propping a Piper Aerostar w/3 bladed props)

    Jack
     
    Last edited: Nov 1, 2017
  18. Nov 1, 2017 #18

    AQAdude

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    I have an AFS 5500 in the RV-7. It never has given me any trouble having it on for start. I'm installing an AFS 2500 in my Skybolt to monitor the engine. No plans to install round dials. Overall the glass will save me weight and be much easier to install IMHO. Running a PC680 battery in the RV and will do the same in the bolt (both have an IO 360)
     
  19. Nov 1, 2017 #19

    EAABipe40FF

    EAABipe40FF

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    If you can turn it on and booted up for start, no problem?
     
  20. Nov 1, 2017 #20

    will moffitt

    will moffitt

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    I put a small led "idiot light" under my oil pressure gauge. It will catch your attention much quicker than a gauge. Down side, requires a pressure switch in the oil line.

    qill
     

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